Strobe Questions - Lights, Lights, Lights! Read Only. No more posting. - PlanetChristmas! Forums. Read Only. We've moved to http://talk.planetchristmas.com - The Forums of PlanetChristmas have moved to http://talk.PlanetChristmas.com
I have an email response from christmaslightdisplays saying there is no more discount after 50. I mentioned actions were cheaper and he wanted links and what not, so better volume pricing might be coming. If you get 10 cases or more at action the price per piece is below 4.50. Will keep you posted
____________________ The Christmas Season should start in August and end in July
I have done alot of Talking with Darryl over at CLD in the midst of this major ice storm and the current pricing stands for 50 and greater... no better pricing for larger qtys than that. He was very informative on his lights and specs for them. I am def going with his. Ill just order in qtys of 50 every month from now till Thanksgiving. That will start 2008 off with 500. I am going to be in sooooooo much trouble with the Mrs. I have a super comfy couch to sleep on, and its right near the Computer that I use to Sequence!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
____________________ "There is no such thing as TOO MANY LIGHTS!"
Sounds like a terminal case of srobitis. I suffered a similar bout last year.
Unfortunetly there is no cure. All you can do is let it run it's course.
The risk of eyesite loss can be lessened with sunglasses in the meantime.
Good Luck
Thanks again to every one who helped me figure out a solution to my dilemma. All you guys are super! Imagine if to many of us ever lived on the same road together, the power company would have to run heavier lines even if we were a 100percent led
____________________ The Christmas Season should start in August and end in July
surfersteve wrote: Action lighting also sells these in E17 and E27 base, what the heck is that. The other place has them in a C9 bulb basesurfersteve wrote: ChuckHutchings wrote: E17 is C7, E27 is C9. (I think. )
Thanks Chuck buddy! I bought a ton of C9 strings to canibalize for thier sockets and would hate to buy a 100 strobes that wont fit into them-klb- wrote: Might double check how C7, C9, E17 and E27 line up.. I'm pretty sure that it lines up like this:
C7 is E12
C9 is E17
E27 is a household light bulb base.
C7 and C9 are NOT base sizes. Light bulb base sizes are the following: midget, miniature, candelabra, intermediate, medium, and mogul. C9 and C7 refer to the glass part of the bulb. "C" means cone shaped. The number is the diameter of the glass in eights of an inch. "Most" (not all) C7 bulbs have a candelabra size base. "Most" (not all) C9 bulbs have an intermediate size base.
The strobes in question have an intermediate size base which is the size of the sockets in a C9 light string.
E12 = candelabra base ("most" C7s)
E17 = intermediate base ("most" C9s)
E27 = medium base ("standard" household size base)
One more thing that might be important here. It's hard to cannibalize the pre-made C7/C9 light set cords. It's difficult to get the sockets off without tearing them up. If you want to use them then the easiest way is to just use the sockets that are where you need them and put burned out bulbs in the sockets you don't need.
TED
Last edited on Sunday February 3rd, 2008 07:15 am by TED
One more thing that might be important here. It's hard to cannibalize the pre-made C7/C9 light set cords. It's difficult to get the sockets off without tearing them up. If you want to use them then the easiest way is to just use the sockets that are where you need them and put burned out bulbs in the sockets you don't need.
TED
For my sockets I will cut each one off and solder it to the length of wires I will be needing. I have military grade heat shrink that is water proof that will slide of the joints and shrink down. The heatshrink is made by panuit but raychem makes some as well. I shop digikey, newark and mouser for this stuff
____________________ "There is no such thing as TOO MANY LIGHTS!"
surfersteve wrote: For my sockets I will cut each one off and solder it to the length of wires I will be needing. I have military grade heat shrink that is water proof that will slide of the joints and shrink down. The heatshrink is made by panuit but raychem makes some as well. I shop digikey, newark and mouser for this stuff
If you mean that you will not physically remove the socket from the wire but rather will cut the set up and splice the socket in using its existing wires then that should work fine. It's when you physically take the socket apart that it gets torn up.
