Preinstalled hooks on Roof - Lights, Lights, Lights! Read Only. No more posting. - PlanetChristmas! Forums. Read Only. We've moved to http://talk.planetchristmas.com - The Forums of PlanetChristmas have moved to http://talk.PlanetChristmas.com
We are probably going to get our house's wood siding redone in vinyl this month. Of course, the first thing that came to my mind was "Hey, I could shove clips between the gaps in the strips of siding! I can use clips to hold up my window frames for next year!".
Then, I realized that I could probably get the guy doing the siding to attach some hooks along the eves, so I could FINALLY put minis along the roof line. My questions:
I am looking for straight lines along the eves; no sagging in between hooks. What should the spacing be?
I should get brass cup hooks, right? That way they won't make rust stains.
Can you get brass cup hooks in white?(The trim color will probably be white)
I figure I should give him a little extra money for his trouble, how much should I pay him?
Thanks!
EDIT: Darn wireless keyboard kept skipping letters!
EDIT 2: It een skipped leters in my edit noe!
EIT 3: I giv up.
Last edited on Sunday February 10th, 2008 12:42 am by Alec
I saw stainless steel cup hooks this year. Don't remember where, but it was a regular item. I'm thinking it was Lowe's or OSH. I would get the stainless steel and then paint them white myself. The brass with still corrode from what I've seen. While eventually the stainless will start going south. I think it would last the longest. I was thinking of making something out of rare-earth magnets when I get to my own house. (I rent now).
Drill and bury the magnets into the eaves. Fill over with filler. Paint. Completely invisable and no rust discoloration issues. Then use the plastic/wood decking boards (less warping and decay issues) and cut them down into 1x2 and mount more magnets into them. I was going to use the mounting clips that they uses to screw tv cable to the wall to anchor to the 1x2's (unless I find something I like better). That way you can leave the lights attached and just put up each section. If the section didn't take a full string, I was going to cut it and use some type of connector to just plug that section back together when it goes up. (and if its the end of the run you can hide any excess behind the boards.) I am going to make them in sections up to 8' in length. Four-Eight 1/2" magnets on each side should hold most setups, add more if necessary.
Click and their attached. Safe, quick and easy to put up and take down. Cost should easily be recouped in time saved installing each year. Plus quick an easy to replace bad sections.
Honestly the only way to hold lights so they are stright is to use shingle tabs of the all in one clips that holds each bulb. Cup hooks just hold the wire, and then the bulbs just end up pointing where ever they feel like it... (been there done that in my life)
Jason Rose wrote: Honestly the only way to hold lights so they are stright is to use shingle tabs of the all in one clips that holds each bulb. Cup hooks just hold the wire, and then the bulbs just end up pointing where ever they feel like it... (been there done that in my life)
Actually, I am using probably going to use minis or icicles, so I don't care about the directions the lights face.
my buddy showed me an awesome way to get a nice straight roof line. take a piece of trim. (like a skinny piece) and glue/ screw in a few pieces of flat metal or something to put under the shingles. do about 3 per board. and then just hook the lights to them and it slides right under the shingles and makes them straight.
The whole reason I'm doing this is because I'm not allowed to go up on a ladder to the 2nd floor roofline. I hope to be able to hang the lights using a extension pole and a shorter ladder.
Good idea though!
So, brass cup hooks will still rust, so I need to get stainless steel ones and paint them. I can do that. What is the largest spacing I can get away with between hooks? I'm guessing somewhere around 3 feet.
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